Recife

Recife , the capital of Pernambuco, is one of the largest and most important cities on the northeastern coast of Brazil. This lively capital, originally founded by Dutch colonizers, is brimming with a vibrant culture, an interesting old town (which includes the oldest synagogue in the Americas) and some nice beaches.

Understand

Recife is on the Atlantic coast, at the mouth of the Capibaribe, Beberibe and Jordão Rivers, close to the eastern most point of the Americas. The climate is tropical, with two main seasons: dry (September-March) and rainy (April-August). Average annual temperature is 78.8°F, with limited variation. The city, which is only two meters above the sea level (some parts are below the sea level), is distributed across rivers, canals and islands. Due to the prevalence of waterways in its geography, Recife is known as the Brazilian Venice. Its 1.5 million inhabitants (3.5 million in the Grande Recife) are called recifenses. Services are the base of the economy. Despite the high incidence of poverty, the municipal Human Development Index (HDI) in 2000 (0.810) was above Brazil's national average (0.800). Recife is famous for its beaches, history, Carnaval, arts and cuisine.

The city can be roughly divided in four major areas: (1) Centro (Downtown), (2) Zona Sul (Southern Zone), (3) Zona Oeste (Western Zone), and (4) Zona Norte (Northern Zone).

• The Centro is composed of the neighborhoods of Recife Antigo (Old Recife), Santo Antônio, São José, Santo Amaro and Boa Vista, which are scattered through a couple of islands and part of the mainland. They are connected to each other by a series of bridges over the Capibaribe River. The Centro contains most of the historic and government buildings in the city. The port, located in Recife Antigo, was once the most active in all of the Americas.

• Zona Sul is the most modern and touristic part of the city, as it was built around the beautiful natural reef beaches that gave the city its name (recife is Portuguese for reef). This area is were most hotels and restaurants are located, as well as the airport and the largest shopping mall. Its most important neighborhood is Boa Viagem, set along the beautiful Boa Viagem beach.

• Zona Oeste is by far the greenest part of the city. It contains remnants of the Atlantic Forest that once covered most of the Brazilian eastern coast. It contains two famous museums (Instituto Ricardo Brennand and Museu-Oficina Francisco Brennand), as well as the Federal University of Pernambuco, and the Recife Military school (2nd best school around all Brazil).

• Zona Norte is mostly a residential area. Throughout the centuries, the neighborhoods along the Capibaribe River were home to the local aristocracy. It contains the city's best schools and hospitals, and is also famous for its parks and bars.

The term Grande Recife is used to describe the Metropolitan Region of Recife, the fifth largest urban agglomeration in Brazil (after Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeio Belo Horizonte and Porto Alegre) and the single largest in the Northeast. Grande Recife offers superb touristic attractions both in Recife proper and outside the city limits. Do not miss Olinda or Porto de Galinhas. The first is famous for its natural setting, colonial architecture and carnaval, while the second has been consistently voted the best beach in Brazil. Cabo de Santo Agostinho, Itamaraca Island and Igarassu are known for their beautiful beaches and important historical monuments.

Getting there

By plane

Recife's modern Guararapes-Gilberto Freyre International Airport (REC) is efficient, user-friendly and close to the city. There are direct scheduled flights to São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Brasília, Salvador, Fortaleza, Maceió, Natal, João Pessoa, Aracaju, Petrolina, Campina Grande, Juazeiro do Norte, as well as to Atlanta (Delta), Buenos Aires, Lisbon (TAP), Madrid, Miami, Milan, Oporto and Paris. There are also regular charter flights from other European cities, such as Helsinki and Amsterdam.

Domestic airlines operating regular scheduled flights to Recife: GOL , OCEANAIR , TAF , TAM , TRIP , VARIG and WebJet .

By car

Some distances by road: Olinda (7 Km), Cabo de Santo Agostinho (33 Km), Igarassu (39 Km), Itamaracá (49 Km), Porto de Galinhas (64 Km), Tamandaré (99 Km), Caruaru (135 Km), Garanhuns (245 Km), Triunfo (450 Km), Serrita (544 Km), Araripina (690 Km) and Petrolina (740 Km).

Three state capitals are less than four hours away: João Pessoa (120 Km), Maceió (285 Km) and Natal (297 Km). A twelve-hour drive separates Recife from either Fortaleza (800 Km due north) or Salvador (839 Km due south).

It is also possible to drive from/to other regions of Brazil, but distances are significantly longer: Belo Horizonte (2,061 Km), Belém (2,074 Km), Brasília (2,220 Km), Rio de Janeiro (2,338 Km), São Paulo (2,660 Km), Curitiba (3,078 Km) and Rio Branco (5,243 Km).

Highway BR-101, also known as the Translitoranean, connects Recife with beaches along Pernambuco's coast, other coastal cities in the Northeast (Natal, João Pessoa, Maceió, Aracaju, Salvador), as well as Vitória and Rio de Janeiro.

Highway BR-232 connects Recife with Gravatá and Caruaru.

Highway BR-408 connects Recife with Campina Grande.

By bus

Recife's long-distance bus terminal, Terminal Integrado de Passageiros (TIP), is way out in the suburbs. For information, call TIP at +55 81 3452-1999. TIP is connected to the city by MetroRec train (around 15 minutes). Bus companies have booths at the Central MetroRec station in town, so at least you do not have to trek out just to buy advance bus tickets.

Bus companies serving Recife's TIP Bus Station:

• Boa Esperança, tel.: +55 81 3452-1618 (to/from Belém)

• Bonfim, tel.: +55 81 3452-1155/2066 (to/from João Pessoa),

• Borborema, tel.: +55 81 3452-2859 (to/from Vitória de Santo Antao),

• Caruaruense, tel.: +55 81 3452-2500 (to/from Caruaru, Gravatá)

• Cruzeiro, tel.: +55 81 3452-2025 (to/from Porto de Galinhas, Tamandaré)

• Expreso 1002 , tel.: +55 81 3452-2796 (to/from Aliança, Carpina, Limoeiro, Paudalho, Salgadinho, Surubim, Timbaúba, Taquaritinga do Norte)

• Expresso Guanabara , tel.: +55 81 3452-2100 (to/from Fortaleza, Mossoró, Imperatriz, Marabá)

• Gontijo , ), tel.: 0800-311-312 (to/from Belo Horizonte, Montes Claros, Sao José do Rio Preto, Uberaba, Uberlândia, Vitória da Conquista)

• Itamaracá , tel.: +55 81 3542-1011 and 3424-8331 (to/from Abreu e Lima, Igarassu, Itamaracá Island, Paulista)

• Itapemirim , tel.: +55 81 3452-2111 (to/from Barra do Garças, Belo Horizonte, Brasília, Campos, Curitiba, Feira de Santana, Foz do Iguaçu, Goiânia, Rio de Janeiro, Salvador, São Paulo, Vitória, Vitória da Conquista)

• Jotude, tel.: +55 81 3452-1741 (to/from Garanhunhs, Gravatá)

• Leão do Norte, tel.: +55 81 2121-9111 (to/from Arcoverde, Campina Grande, Paulo Afonso)

• Penha , tel.: 0800-723-2122 (to/from Feira de Santana, Rio de Janeiro, Salvador)

• Princesa do Agreste, tel.: +55 81 3452-1371 (to/from Araripina, Crato, Juazeiro do Norte, Salgueiro, Serra Talhada, Teresina)

• Progresso , (to/from Aracaju, Araripina, Arcoverde, Campina Grande, Garanhuns, João Pessoa, Juazeiro, Monteiro, Natal, Paulo Afonso, Pesqueira, São Luís, Serra Talhada, Teresina, Triunfo). Tickets can be bought in Boa Viagem, tel.: +55 81 3465-4640; Boa Vista, +55 81 3231-1860; MetroRec Central Station, +55 81 3424-5648

• Real Alagoas, tel.: +55 81 3452-1511 (to/from Aracaju, Ipojuca, Maceió, Maragogi, Sao José da Coroa Grande, Sirinhaém)

• São Domingos, tel.: +55 81 3452-2462

• São Geraldo , tel.: +55 81 3452-2733 (to/from Caruaru, Curitiba, Foz do Iguaçu, Garanhuns, Palmas, Petrolina, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo)

• Transacreana, tel.: +55 11 6698-7399 and +55 61 8402-8418 (to/from Cacoal, Cuiabá, Feira de Santana, Ji-Paraná, Porto Velho, Rio Branco, Rondonópolis, Vitória da Conquista)

By sea

You can arrive in cruise ships at the Port of Recife .

Cruises may come from other Brazilian states, from other countries in South America and the Caribbean, or from Europe. Transatlantic cruise liners include Holland America Line ms Rotterdam , Holland America Line ms Prisendam , Oceania Cruises Insignia , SeaDream Yacht Club , Royal Caribbean International Splendour of the Sea , P&O Cruises Artemis , Cunard Line Queen Elizabeth II, among others.

Cruises from Recife to the Fernando de Noronha archipelago are also available.

Traveling around

• Taxi is the best bet. Look for registered taxi companies which charge standard rates. Ask for a car with air conditioning (especially in the summer).

  • TeleTáxi | Tel: +55 81 2121-4242

  • Ligue Táxi | Tel: +55 81 3228-6830

  • Coopetáxi | Tel: +55 81 3224-8441

  • Disk Táxi | Tel: +55 81 3224-5410

  • RádioTáxi Recife | Tel: +55 81 3222-6580

  • Recife Táxi | Tel: +55 81 3424-3020

• Rent a car:

  • Avis | Tel: +55 81 3341-2542

  • Clean Car | Tel: +55 81 3326-4236

  • Fleet Car | Tel: +55 81 3465-4777

  • Hertz | Tel: +55 81 3461-1222

  • Interlocadora | Tel: +55 81 3341-5364

  • Localiza | Tel: +55 81 3341-2082

  • Locarauto | Tel: +55 81 3341-6544

  • Nobre | Tel: +55 81 3326-5673

  • Rede Brasil | Tel: +55 81 3341-5549

  • Unidas | Tel: +55 81 3325-5949

• Buses are the best form of public transportation. They are all over the city.

• MetroRec , Recife's subway system. Although it is the third largest in Brazil, it only covers limited areas of the city. It provides a useful link between the city center and the TIP Bus Station in the outskirts. Otherwise, the metro does not serve any major tourist areas. The Southern Line, which is under construction, will provide direct access to the airport and Shopping Center Recife.

See

Beaches

Recife is known for its amazing beaches. Probably one of the world's best urban beaches is Boa Viagem Beach with pristine white sands. If you want a tan, you came to the right place. The beach road has a wide walkway attached and this is dotted with huts selling food and drink. Try the traditional "água de coco" (coconut water). The beach itself is full of vendors selling food and drink. There are also vendors selling t-shirts, hats, suncream, sunglasses. These guys can get a bit insistent. Simply smile and one word will have them on their way: não (pronounced "now.")

The best beach in Recife is Porto de Galinhas. On New Year's, this place is like a fantasy with amazing open-air parties, tourists from all over Brazil, and an amazing beach. Other awesome spots are: Maracaípe, Serrambi, Tamandaré, São José da Coroa Grande, Muro Alto, Cupe, Suape, Calhetas, Gaibu, Maria Farinha and Itamaracá Island.

Churches

• Convento Franciscano de Santo Antônio (Franciscan Convent of Saint Anthony). Rua Imperador Pedro II, Santo Antônio, (Centro), . Open: Mon-Fri 8AM-11:30AM and 2PM-5PM, Sat 8AM-11:30AM. One of the city's biggest attractions, a convent containing the ostentatious Capela Dourada (Golden Chapel), which certainly lives up to its name. Built in 1588, it is one of the most beautiful baroque churches in Brazil. Altar with gold covered engravings, beautiful paintings on the ceiling an impressive amount of Portuguese-style tiled panels. The convent also houses the Museu Franciscano de Arte Sagrada (Franciscan Museum of Sacred Art).

• São Pedro dos Clérigos (Saint Peter of Clerics Cathedral). Pátio de Sao José (Centro), . Built between 1728 and 1782, the cathedral is in the charming Saint Peter Square, surrounded by colorful colonial buildings. It is a replica of the Santa Maria Maggiore Sanctuary in Rome. Rosewood altar; pulpit engraved in gold; wooden ceiling sculpted with images of Saint Peter, the twelve apostles and the evangelists. Blend of baroque art, 16th century mannerism, as well as rococo and neoclassic elements.

• Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Our Lady of Carmel Basilica and Convent). Avenida Dantas Barreto, Santo Antônio (Centro), . Open: Mo-Fr from 7AM-7PM, Sa 7AM-noon, Su 8AM-noon and 6PM-9PM. Built between 1710-1767, where the Boa Vista Palace built by the Dutch governor of Northeastern Brazil once stood. A religious art collection can also be visited. Baroque in style; altar with gold engravings and crowns of gold and precious stones. One of the rooms is covered with Portuguese tiles.

• Santíssimo Sacramento - Matriz de Santo Antônio (Holy Sacrament - Saint Anthony Mother Church). Praça da Independência, Santo Antônio (Centro). Open: daily, 7AM-noon and 2PM-6PM. Built between 1753 and 1790, the church is in manueline/baroque style. Interior decorated with enormous crystal chandelier and images of Saint Anthony and Saint Sebastian.

• Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Homens Pretos (Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black Men). Rua Estreita do Rosário, Santo Antônio (Centro). Open: Mo-Fr 9AM-1:30PM and 2:30PM-6PM, Sat 8AM-noon. Erected by African-Brazilian slaves in the 17th century. Main wooden altar engraved in gold; lateral altars display images from the 18th century.

• Madre de Deus (Mother of God). Rua Madre de Deus, Recife Antigo (Centro), next-door to the Paço Alfândega Shopping Mall, tel.: +55 81 3224-5587. Open: Tu-Fr 8AM-noon and 2PM-5PM, Sat-Sun 9AM-noon.

• Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao dos Militares (Our Lady of the Conception of the Military). Rua Nova, 309, Santo Antônio (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3224-3106, . Built in 1726. The 1781 ceiling paintings depict the Guararapes Battle against the Dutch. Leaders from the Praieira Revolution and the Paraguay War are burried in the church. The church also houses the Museu de Arte Sacra Padre Roberto Barbalho (Father Roberto Barbalho Museum of Sacred Art).

• Santa Cruz (Holy Cross). Pátio de Santa Cruz, Boa Vista (Centro). Built between 1725 and 1732. Parts of the movie Lisbela e o Prisioneiro (2003) were shot in the square in front of the church.

• Nossa Senhora do Pilar (1733). Praça Monsenhor João Castilho Barbosa, (Centro), tel.: +55 31 3551-4736. This church is one of Ouro Preto's highly decorated building, said to have the interior made up of 400 gold leafs. Also houses the Museu de Arte Sacra.

Museums (Historic Interest)

• Ricardo Brennand Institute. Alameda Antônio Brennand, Várzea (Zona Oeste), tel.: +55 81 2121-0352 / +55 81 2121-0365, . Open: Tu-Su, 1PM-5PM. Holds a very impressive collection of Brazilian and European historical artifacts from the 15th to 19th centuries. Special attention given to the period of Dutch occupation in Recife and Northeastern Brazil. Highly Recommended.

• Museum of the Northeastern Man. Museu do Homem do Nordeste, Avenida 17 de Agosto, 2187, Casa Forte (Zona Norte), tel.: +55 81 3441-5500 (take the "Dois Irmãos" bus in front of the Central Post Office in downtown, and ask the driver to let you off), . Part of the Fundação Joaquim Nabuco. This fantastic museum depicts the various folk arts, traditions, and history of Northeast Brazil. The displays are divided among three sections, focusing on sugar, folk arts, and anthropology. It's located in the suburbs, but well worth the ride out.

• Museum of the State of Pernambuco. Museu do Estado de Pernambuco, Avenida Rui Barbosa, 960, Graças (Zona Norte), tel.: +55 81 3427-9322 and 3427-0766, . Open: Tu-Fr 10AM-5PM, Sa-Su 2PM-5PM.

• Museum of the City of Recife. Museu da Cidade do Recife, Forte das Cinco Pontas, São José (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3224-8492. Open: M-Fr 9AM-6PM, Sa-Su 1PM-5PM. Located at the 17th century Cinco Pontas Fortress.

• Military Museum. Museu Militar, at the Brum Fortress, Praça da Comunidade Luso-Brasileira, Recife Antigo (Centro).

• Abolition Museum. Museu da Abolição, Rua Benfica, 1150, Madalena (Zona Norte), . Museum that covers the period of slavery and the abolitionist movement in XIX century Brazil. Former plantation house. Former residence of Counsellor Joao Alfredo, leader of Brazil's abolitionist movement in the 19th century.

• Value Museum. Museu de Valores, Rua da Aurora, 1259, Santo Amaro (Centro), tel.: 0800-992-345, . Open: Mo-Fr 9AM-4PM. Museum of by the local representation of the Central Bank of Brazil. Holds more than 7,000 historic coins from Brazil and abroad, historic maps and artifacts found during excavations at Fort Orange, in nearby Itamaracá Island.

• Train Museum. Museu do Trêm, Estação Central, Praça Visconde de Mauá, São José (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3224-4620. Open: M-Th 1PM-6PM, Fr 8AM-noon. The Train Museum is in the old Central Train Station, which now also serves as the central station for MetroREC, Recife's subway system.

• Museum of the Archeological, Historic and Geographic Insitute of Pernambuco. Museu do Instituto Arqueológico, Histórico e Geográfico de Pernambuco, Rua do Hospício , 130, Boa Vista (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3222-4952. Open: M-Fr 1PM-5PM, Sa 8AM-noon.

• Museum of Natural History Louis Jacques Viget. Museu de História Natural Louis Jacques Brunet, Rua da Aurora, Boa Vista (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3303-5315 / +55 81 3421-7427. Created in 1861, it is one of the first natural history museums in Latin America. Located at Ginásio Pernambucano. Collection spans archeology, botany, geology and zoology.

• Museum of Archeology of the Catholic University of Pernambuco. Museu de Arqueologia da Universidade Católica de Pernambuco, Rua do Príncipe, 526, Bl G, 1° Andar, Boa vista (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3216-4192, . Archeological museum focused on indigenous artifacts. Located at the Catholic University of Pernambuco.

• Casa-Museu Gilberto Freyre. Rua Jorge Tasso Neto, Apipucos (Zona Norte), tel.: +55 81 3441-1733, . Open: M-Fr, 9AM-4:30PM Beautiful house where once lived Brazil's greatest sociologist, Gilberto Freyre .

• Casa Manuel Bandeira/Espaço Pasárgada. Rua da União, 26, Boa Vista (Centro), next door to Joaquim Nabuco Palace and Pernambucan School, tel.: +55 81 3231-3994, . Open: M-Fr, 8AM-6PM. House were the acclaimed poet Manuel Bandeira spent his childhood.

Museums (Art & Folklore Interest)

• Museu-Oficina Francisco Brennand, Propriedade Santos Cosme e Damião, near Avenida Caxangá and Rua Gastão Vidigal, Cordeiro, Zona Oeste, . Great ceramic art in a bucolic area of the city surrounded by forest.

• Parque das Esculturas, a sculpture park on the reefs of the port of Recife. Contains more than 90 sculptures by Francisco Brennand, including a 30 meter high tower. Getting there: take a canoe ride from Praça do Marco Zero, in Recife Antigo (Centro). Alternatively, drive through Brasília Teimosa (Zona Sul).

• Museu da Imagem e do Som de Pernambuco (MISPE) . Rua da Aurora, Boa Vista, Centro, tel.: +55 81 3231-2716, . M-F 9AM-5PM, Sa,Su 1PM-5PM. Image and Sound Museum. Holds more than 6,000 pieces, including movies, records, photographs, postcards and the like. Uses modern audivisual techniques to document Pernambuco's culture.

• Aluísio Magalhães Modern Art Museum (Museu de Arte Moderna Aluísio Magalhães (MAMAM). Rua da Aurora, 265, Boa Vista Centro, tel: +55 81 3232-2188 and 3232-1694, . Open: Tu-Su noon-6PM.

• MAMAM at the Courtyard (MAMAM no Pátio). Unit of the Aloísio Magalhães Modern Art Museum (MAMAM) at the São Pedro Courtyard. Experimental space for visual arts and critical reflection concerning contemporary development in these arts. Short term exhibitions, performance art, workshops, debates. Pátio de São Pedro, 17, São José (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3232-2844 / +55 81 3232-2857.

• Museu Murillo La Greca, Rua Leonardo Bezerra Cavalcanti 366, Parnamirim, Zonta Norte, tel.: +55 81 3232-4276, . M-Fr, 9AM-5PM. More than 1,400 drawings and 160 paintings by paintor Murillo La Greca. The paintor's biography (in Portuguese) and some of his works can be seen at Cyberartes .

• Museu de Arte Sacra Padre Roberto Barbalho, Rua Nova, 309, Santo Antônio, Centro, tel: +55 81 3224-3106. Located at Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao dos Militares Church, the museum contains religious artifacts.

• Museu Franciscano de Arte Sacra, at Santo Antônio de Sao Francisco Convent. Rua Imperador Pedro II, Santo Antônio, Centro.

• Museu de Arte Popular, Pátio de São Pedro, 11, São José, Centro. Open: M-Fr 8AM-5PM.

• Casa do Carnaval. Pátio de São Pedro, 52, São José, Centro, tel.: +55 81 3224-1103, . Open: M-Fr 9AM-5:30PM.

Other Historic Buildings

• Santa Isabel Theater (1850). Teatro Santa Isabel, Praça da República, Santo Antônio (Centro), . One of Brazil's finest theaters.

• Princesses' Field Palace (1841). Palácio do Campo das Princesas, Praça da República, Santo Antônio (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3425-2124, . The state governor's Palace. The name of the building derives from the fact that the daughters of Emperor Dom Pedro II used to play in the palace's gardens.

• Justice Palace (1930). Palácio da Justiça, Praça da República, Santo Antônio (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3419-3311, . Seat of the Pernambuco State Judiciary.

• Portuguese Reading Room (1850). Gabinete Português de Leitura (1850), Rua do Imperador, 290, Santo Antônio (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3224-2593, . Open: M-Fr, 8AM-noon and 1PM-5PM.

• Joaquim Nabuco House. Rua da Imperatriz, 147, Santo Antônio (Centro). House were 19th century politician, abolitionist and author Joaquim Nabuco was born.

• Joaquim Nabuco Palace (1874). Assembléia Legislativa do Estado de Pernambuco, Rua da União, 439, Boa Vista (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3217-2211, . Seat of the Pernambuco State Legislature. A Historical Documents Collection can be visited in the annex building.

• Pernambucan School (1825-1855). Ginásio Pernambucano, Rua da Aurora, 703, Boa Vista, (Centro), next door to the State Assembly and Manuel Bandeira's House. One of Brazil's oldest secondary schools. The school's Louis Jacques Brunet Natural History Museum was one of the first in Latin America. Father Carapuceiro, Barbosa Lima Sobrinho, Epitácio Pessoa and Ariano Suassuna were either teachers or students here. The school was visited by Emperor Dom Pedro II.

• Parque Theater (1915). Teatro do Parque, Rua do Hospício, 81, Boa Vista (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3423-6044. Parque Theater is one of the three oldest, historic theaters in Recife. Modern and traditional plays from Spanish and Portuguese playwrights of the 17th-21st centuries are performed at the theater. Next door is the Cineteatro do Parque, Recife's oldest cinemas. Because Recife's municipal government, tickets are subsidized and cost only pennies!

• Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue. Rua do Bom Jesus, Recife Antigo (Centro), . Oldest synagogue in the Americas.

• Malakoff Tower Cultural Obseratory (1853). Torre Malakoff, Rua do Observatório, Recife Antigo (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3424.8704, . Open: T-Fr 10AM-8PM, Sa 2PM-8PM, Su 2PM-7PM. Beautiful tower in the port front. Functions as an astronomic observatory and arts and science center.

• Benfica Cultural Center. Centro Cultural Benfica, Rua Benfica, 157, Madalena (Zona Norte); tel.: +55 81 3227-0657 and 3228-6589, . Open: M-Fr, 9AM-noon and 2PM-5PM. The center specializes in the "Armorial" Movement and also holds a significant portion of the pieces from the old Fine Arts School.

• Pernambucan Academy of Letters (1870). Academia Pernambucana de Letras, Av. Rui Barbosa, 1586, Graças (Zona Norte), .

Things to do

• Recife's Carnaval is one of the country's busiest. Very different from its carioca counterpart, in Recife street shows and parades play contagious rhythms like frevo and maracatu, attracting more than 1.6 million people to celebrate and dance on the streets every year. Apart from frevo and maracatu, two other cultural manifestations that are typical of Pernambucan Carnaval include bumba-meu-boi and caboclinho.

• Maracatu Rehearsals (ensaios de maracatu). Some of the most traditional maracatu groups include: Leão Coroado (since 1863), Estrela Brilhante do Recife (since 1909), Porto Rico (since 1916), Cambinda Estrela do Recife (since 1935), and Elefante, among others.

• Catamaran Rides in the Capibaribe River. Contact: Catamaran Tours, Cais das Cinco Pontas, Avenida Sul, São José (Centro), tels.: +55 81 3424-2845 and +55 81 9973-4077, . Daily, 4PM and 8PM. Tour last 1 hour and 15 minutes.

• Scuba-diving at shipwreck park off the coast of Recife. Recife is known as Brazil's shipwreck capital: more than 100 ships have sunk in the coast around the city, 15 of which are accessible to tourists. Together with the natural coral reefs, they make the coast of Recife a perfect spot for scuba-diving, .

• Volleyball and footvolley at Boa Viagem beach. The latter was first developed into a sport in the sands of Recife, Salvador and Rio de Janeiro in the 1970s.

Eat

Recife is the gastronomic capital of the Northeast. There are more high-quality restaurants here than in any other city in Brazil north of Rio de Janeiro.

Local specialties

Pernambuco has a multicultural gastronomy with African and indigenous influences, among others. The national dish is Feijoada, but not very popular in Recife. It is a stew of beans, pork and beef, and served with rice and Farofa. Seafood is exotic and delicious. The regional food has some peculiarities like Carne de Sol and buchada, a dish prepared with the stomach of billy goat.

• Recife is the birthplace of two traditional and delicious cakes Bolo de Rolo and Bolo Sousa Leão.

• Do try the snacks on offer from beach vendors---little chicken and beef kebabs, oysters, prawns, and grilled cheese. Just be aware that some of the vendors may have been carrying them around for hours--if it doesn't look fresh, it probably isn't.

• A must try is Caldinho: a soup served all over the place (restaurants, dedicated carts and people with flasks selling it on the beach). Comes in a variety of flavors from black bean to shrimp. The person selling it will say "completa" when you order it. This simply means "complete", and if you say yes at this point you get a few added extras, such as a small boiled egg put into the cup of hot soup.

Beach food

Fancy sitting around all day on the beach under a beach umbrella? Well, you can! The chairs and the guy that moves the umbrella are free. All they ask in return is that you buy your food and drink from them.

They all carry a menu and the food arrives quickly and freshly made on the beach. Try the seafood. The fish is usually caught locally and earlier that same day.

Apart from your own vendor, there will be a variety of vendors walking up and down the beach, selling a variety of things. Learning the language for these items is useful but unnecessary as the vendor will take the time to show you what he/she has on offer.

• Prawns (Camarao) - Be careful of the prawns-- smell them before purchase. A free sample is available with the word prova. They might have been walked up and down the beach for hours in the hot sun. A quick sniff is enough to tell you if they are fresh or not. If you decide to eat them, here is a quick tip: hold the tail of the prawn, tear off and discard the head and leg sections, hold the very tip of the tail, pop the rest in your mouth and bite off the tip leaving it in your fingers. Yes, you can eat the shell; peel it if you wish, but you will not see the locals doing this.

• Oysters (Ostra) - Vendors will be carrying a bucket full of ice and live oysters. They are prepared for you one at a time. Served with a squeeze of lime, salt and cumin powder.

• Crab - They do not come prepared, so unless you know which bits to eat and which bits to discard, steer clear!

• Grilled cheese (Queijo de Coalho) - No warnings here--just go ahead and enjoy. It's a real treat.

• Kebabs (Espetinhos) - Grilled chicken or beef. Cooked fresh right in front of you.

• Ice-cream - The prices are a lot more expensive than just off the beach. But you don't have to get out of your chair. In that heat, you will appreciate that.

• Caldinho - you will notice guys walking up and down the beach with flasks. These are full of different flavors of a soup called caldinho. Try prawn one with hot pepper sauce.

• Ovos de codorna - Small boiled quail eggs ready to peel salt and eat.

• Nuts - A variety of nuts is available, cashew being the most obvious because it is grown right there in northeastern Brazil. Also, peanuts in 2 varieties: roasted or boiled.

• Carne-de-Sol do Cunha, Rua Rigueira Costa, 80, Rosarinho, Zona Norte, tel.: 81 3241-6512. Located in the center of Recife, this restaurant is a local favorite. It offers traditional Pernambucan food, such as buchada, as well as other regional dishes. With low prices and large portions, Carne-de-Sol do Cunha is one place you do not want to miss.

• Parraxaxá, Rua Baltazar Pereira, 32, Boa Viagem, Zona Sul, tel.: +55 81 3463-7874, . This Northeast-themed restaurant offers all the traditional regional cuisine. The staff are dressed as either police or outlaws. With its festive decor, the restaurant is a fun way to enjoy a meal.Famous for it´s "Pernambuco Breakfast"(Café da Manhã Pernambucano).Some young people go there for breakfast after a night out.

• Leite, Praça Joaquim Nabuco, 147, Santo Antônio, Centro, tel.: +55 81 3224-7977. Open since 1886, it is Recife's most traditional restaurant. Leite has a large menu ranging from decadent entrees to delicious deserts. The restaurant mainly serves Portuguese dishes.

• Assucar, Rua da Alfândega, 35, Recife Antigo, Centro, tel.: +55 81 3419-7582. Set on the fourth floor of the Paço Alfândega Shopping Mall, patrons of this restaurant can enjoy gorgeous views of the Capibaribe River. Assucar offers a menu filled with classic and contemporary northeastern cuisine.

• Mingus, Rua Atlantico 102, Boa Viagem, Zona Sul, . This modern restaurant offers patrons a variety of dishes and regional wines. Mingus delights its diners with fine cuisine along with relaxing jazz harmonies.

• Ponte Nova, Rua Bruno Veloso, 528, Boa Viagem, Zona Sul, tel.: +55 81 3327-7226, . Ponte Nova serves contemporary, French-influenced, regional cuisine. Adding to its reputation as one of the best restaurants in town, Chef Joca Pontes was voted 2007's best chef by Veja Magazine. This restaurant will surely impress those who dine here.

• Boi Preto Grill, Av. Boa Viagem 97, Pina, Zona Sul, tel:+55 81 3466-6334, .

Drink

Bars

There are many many bars in Recife, most, if not all, serving food as well as drinks. The prices are cheap, ranging from R$2.50 to R$4 for a 600 ml bottle of cerveja, a lager style beer.

There are bars of varying quality up and down the streets of Recife. A few good picks include the following:

• Bar Central, Rua Mamede Simões 144, Boa Vista. Tel.: +55 81 3222-7622. M-Fr 12-2AM, Sa 8PM-2AM, Su closed. Situated in downtown Recife, this is a lively and fun place more upmarket than most. The bar attracts a diverse crowd, ranging from writers to musician. Bar Central is also queer-friendly and very famous with indie kids.

• Biruta, Rua Bem-Te-Vi, 15, Pina, Zona Sul. Tel.: +55 81 3326-5151. . A lovely bar on the north end of the beach that gets a great sea breeze all evening. Get there early to get a table with a view.

• Entre Amigos, Rua Marquês de Valença 30, Boa Viagem. Tel.: +55 81 3312-1000. . A bar restaurant with 2 names and 3 seating areas, one of which has air conditioning. Situated in downtown Boa Viagem and a 5 minute walk from the beach. A great place to watch the football or soak up the lively atmosphere of the very busy bar, it has a great buffet for lunch or you can eat à la carte.

• Guaiamum Gigante, Rua Dr. José de Góes, Parnamirim; tel.: +55 81 3441-1509.. This bar-restaurant seats up to 600 people. Although it may not be too pleasing to the eyes, Guaiamum Gigante serves great portions of delicious seafood for a relatively low price. This is a nice place to go on Sundays!

• Downtown Pub, Rua Vigário Tenório, 105, Recife Antigo; tel.: +55 81 3424-6317. . Located in Old Town Recife, this bar is inspired by British pubs. The bar puts on live music shows and is self-entitled "House of Rock".If you like "Heavy Metal", watch out. There might be a concert over there.

At the less classy end of the market, there are some great bars. They don't have great signage to tell you that it's a bar. Basically, if you see some plastic garden furniture in the street, you are looking at a bar. These are usually the most fun places with the loudest people and the best vibe. Be careful of the ice in places like this as it might not be made from bottled water. It also helps to have a good constitution of you are going to eat in these bars.

• There are huts selling food, beer, and the like about every half kilometer in the center of Boa Viagem beach.

• Warning: Be sure to take a taxi to and from the bars you are visiting. Getting mugged is not the best way to end an otherwise pleasant evening out. Taxis are cheap and the staff will be only too happy to call one for you.

Dance clubs

• NOX, in Boa Viagem, .

• OverPoint, in Recife Antigo, .

• Depois Dancing Bar, in Recife Antigo, .

• Downtown Pub, bar/danceclub in Recife Antigo, .

• Sala de Reboco, specialized in Forró , in Cordeiro, .

• Metrópole, GLS danceclub in Boa Vista, .

Theaters

Recife is the third largest theater production center in Brazil, after Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. The most traditional theater is Teatro Santa Isabel, while the most modern is the one at Convention Center of the Federal University of Pernambuco.

• Santa Isabel Theater. Praça da República, Santo Antônio (Centro), .

• Universidade Federal de Pernambuco Theater. UFPE Campus, Cidade Universitária (Zona Oeste), .

• Valdemar de Oliveira Theater. Praça Oswaldo Cruz, 412, Boa Vista (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3222-1284.

• Teatro Barreto Júnior, Rua Estudante Jeremias Bastos, 121, Pina (Zona Sul), tel.: +55 81 3326-4177

• Teatro Apolo, Rua do Apolo, 121, Recife Antigo (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3224-1114

• Teatro SESC Casa Amarela (Teatro Capiba), Rua Professor José dos Anjos, 1109, Casa Amarela (Zona Norte), tel.: +55 81 3441-8900

• Teatro SESC Santo Amaro, Rua Marques do Pombal, Santo Amaro (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3216-1616

• Teatro Hermilo Borba Filho, Rua do Apolo, 121, Recife Antigo (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3424-5429

• Teatro Armazém 14, Rua Alfredo Lisboa, Cais do Porto, Recife Antigo (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3424-5613

Smaller Theaters:

• Teatro Clênio Vanderley, Rua Floriano Peixoto São José (Centro), at Casa da Cultura, tel.: +55 81 3224-2850

• Teatro da Ribalta, Rua das Pernambucanas, 65, Graças (Zona Norte), tel.: +55 81 3231-4884

• Teatro Joaquim Cardozo, Rua Benfica, 157, Madalena (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3227-0657

• Teatro Maurício de Nassau, Rua Vigário Tenório, 135/143, Recife Antigo (Centro), tel.: +55 81 3224-8790 / +55 81 3225-3073

Cinema

• Multiplex Shopping Tacaruna. Shopping Center Tacaruna, Avenida Agamenon Magalhães, 153, Santo Amaro, Centro/Zona Norte; tel.: +55 81 3207-3001, .

• Cine Rosa e Silva. Executive Trade Center, Avenida Rosa e Silva, 1460, Aflitos, Zona Norte; tel.: +55 81 3243-8255, .

• Cineteatro José Carlos Cavalvante Borges (Cine FUNDAJ), Rua Henrique Dias, 609, Derby (Zona Norte), tel.: +55 81 3421-3266, .

Soccer

Soccer teams from Recife participate in the A-Series (First Division) Brazilian Championship, the Brazil Cup, Pernambucan Championship, and the Copa Libertadores da América.

The three most traditional teams are Clube Nautico Capibaribe (home: Aflitos Stadium); Sport Clube do Recife (home: Ilha do Retiro Stadium); and Santa Cruz Futebol Clube (home: Arruda Stadium). Nautico and Sport are currently in the A-Series Brazilian Champsionship. Santa Cruz is in the D-Series.

Recife is home to internationally famous soccer players including Juninho Pernambucano, Rivaldo, Ricardo Rocha and Vavá.

Roller hockey

The city of Recife is home to some of Brazil's top roller hockey teams: Clube Portugues do Recife , Clube Nautico Capibaribe , Sport Clube do Recife and Associacão Amigos do Minho do Recife. Both Clube Portugues and Sport have been national champions.

Beach volleyball and footvolley

Can be practiced along Boa Viagem beach.

Sleep

Many tourists stay along the beach in Boa Viagem, 10 km (7 mi) south of the center.

The area of Boa Vista just across the Ponte Velha from the train station has a number of budget and mid-range hotels.

Buy

• Casa de Cultura , across from the old Central Train Station (now Train Museum). Once the city prison, it is now a warren of small shops (one in each cell) selling regional arts and crafts.

• Mercado de Sao José (Sao José Market), 1871 project of architect J. Louis Liethier and engineer Louis Léger Vauthier. Iron structure was inspired in the Grenelle Market in Paris, France. Historically, the market played an important role as a meeting place for street magicians, musicians, acrobats and the like. You can still find traditional handicrafts, regional food, medicinal herbs and Cordel Literature.

• Recife is a major commercial hub in Brazil. Large shopping malls include Shopping Center Recife (among Brazil's largest), Shopping Center Tacaruna, Shopping Center Guararapes, Plaza Casa Forte, and Shopping Boa Vista. A special visit to Paço Alfândega is highly recommended. Paço Alfândega (Customs' Palace in Portuguese) is a comfortable, modern shopping mall set in the renovated structure of a colonial customs house building from the early 1700s, during which Recife was the largest port in the Americas. There is a permanent historic exhibition on the history of Recife and the customs building. The mall also houses one of Recife's main nightclubs and some good restaurants. You can have a good view of the Capibaribe River and its bridges from the main terrace. Next door, you can visit the wonderful Livraria Cultura bookstore.

Safety

Recife's reputation for safety is not one of the best. Do not be alarmed - the odds are you will have a fabulous time here - but keep aware of your environment and take the preventive measures recommended for other large cities in Brazil and Latin America.

• Robbery in street and buses can be fairly common.

• While entering or leaving Olinda at dusk or dawn, you have a elevated risk of being ambushed. Taxis are recommended.

• Beware of the unlicensed guides. Make sure you have the travel itinerary planned out and a price (including meals, fuel, etc.) agreed upon before starting out.

• Watch out for shark warnings before entering the water at the Boa Viagem beach.

• Be ware of any women who seem "easy" and are extremely friendly. There is a lot of prostitution, both official and unofficial, in Boa Viagem clubs and bars.

• Some "easy" girls might not be prostitutes,but they might want you to pay all that she eats and drinks for the night(be careful she might choose the most expensive ones on the menu)

• And of course there are nice, educated and intelligent girls you can meet or fall in love. In case that happens, she might want to take you to meet her family! This is nothing serious, just a part of the city's hospitality. Just be careful with too much intimacy in front of her parents.

• If you are carrying large notes (20,50, or 100 reais), be sure to tell the taxi driver before you get in because he might not have change. Some taxi drivers might not know how to get to where you are going so make sure that you have everything written down. As well,if you are a woman traveling alone, be careful! Sit at the back row of the car or drivers might try to take advantage of the situation .

• Learn at least a little bit of Portuguese and learn about the local culture. With that, you can make even more friends and receive lots of smiles.

• Also be aware that Boa Viagem has a large population of transvestites, which often blend in and go unnoticed.

• Avoid Recife's downtown on Sundays. Streets are deserted all day long and are very unsafe. Consider taking a tour to a neighboring city or beach instead.

Budget

• Albergue Maracatus do Recife (Hosteling International-HI), Rua Maria Carolina, 185, Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), tel. +55 81 3326-1221 / 9292-5670, . Located 200 meters from the beach and near the Recife Shopping Center, this hostel offers shared rooms for 4 to 10 people.

• Hostel Boa Viagem (Hosteling International-HI), Rua Aviador Severiano Lins, 455, Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), tel. +55 81 3326-9572 / +55 81 3466-2486,. Prices vary according to the season. Hostel Boa Viagem is 15 minutes away from the city center by bus and located close to many beaches.

• Piratas da Praia, Av. Conselheiro Aguiar, 2034 / 307, Boa viagem (Zona Sul), tel. +55 81 3326-1281 / 9649-6887, . Piratas da Praia provides easy access to all the tourist spots, including the beach, Convention Center, and Old Town Recife! This hostel also offers free wi fi and 24 hour parking, if you choose to rent a car. They also have different holiday and Carnaval packages.

• Pousada Villa Boa Vista, Rua Miguel Couto, 81, Boa Vista (Centro), . Close to downtown and the historic areas of the city.

• Pousada Bamboo, Rua Setubal, 186, Boa Viagem, tel. +55 81 3343-1179,. This small, 15-room hotel is affiliated with the Pousada bar and club. Guests of the hotel have free admission to the club. Under German/Australian management, the hotel offers yacht and sightseeing tours. Breakfast is included in the price, along with free airport transfers!

Mid-range

• Hotel Aconchego, Rua Félix de Brito e Melo, 382, Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), tel.: +55 81 3464-2989 & +55 81 3075.7767, . Located 10 minutes from the airport and close to the beach, Hotel Aconchego offers its guests 24 hour restaurant and room service.

• Imperial Suites, Rua Antonio Lumack do Monte. 203, Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), . Close to the Recife Shopping Center, this luxurious hotel can provide you with a comfortable, relaxing room to unwind from your busy days of sightseeing.

• Best Western Manibu Recife, Av Conselheiro Aguiar 919, Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), . This well-known hotel provides its guests with two bars, a restaurant that seats 170 people, and a solarium.

• Holiday Inn Recife, Av. Engenheiro Domingos Ferreira, 3067, Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), . tel.: +55 81 2122-3939. Holiday Inn Recife offers complimentary breakfast buffets, along with a well-equipped fitness room. Staff speaks both English and Portuguese.

• Hotel Central, Av. Manoel Borba, 209, Boa Vista (Centro), tel. +55 81 3222.4001 / 3222-2353 / 3222-9138. The oldest hotel in Recife. Used to attract stars and the like in the early 20th century. Remains architecturally appealing.

• Hotel São Domingos, Praça Maciel Pinheiro, 66, Boa Vista (Centro), tel.: +55 81 231-1388. Mid-range hotel with good buffet breakfast.

Splurge

• Hotel Atlante Plaza, Av. Boa Viagem, 5426, in the beachfront of Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), . Hotel Atlante Plaza is arguably the best hotel in Recife. It has two restaurants, a 24-hour babysitting service, 24-hour room service, and beauty salon. This is probably the only hotel that offers its guests a pillow menu; guests can choose from various scents and stuffings, such as lavender and camomile.

• Blue Tree Towers Recife, Rua Bernardo Vieira de Melo, 01, in Piedade beach (Jaboatao dos Guararapes), . Tel.:+55 81 3468-1255. This 4-star hotel is comprised of 135 rooms, all with a view of the sea. The hotel also provides child care and room service. Blue Tree Towers is a great option for both business and leisure travelers alike.

• Internacional Palace Hotel, Av. Boa Viagem, 3722, Boa Viagem, tel. +55 81 4009-2500, toll-free in Brazil 0800-702-8383 . Internacional Palace Hotel provides exceptional service with a great staff. Steps away from the beach, the hotel houses Arrecifes Restaurant, which serves a blend of international and regional cuisine. It also has a coffee shop and bar. Internacional Palace Hotel has weekend and honeymoon packages.

• Recife Palace Hotel, Av. Boa Viagem, 4070, Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), tel.: +55 81 4009-2500/4009-2523, . A sister hotel to the Internacional Palace Hotel, Recife Palace Hotel has a total of 295 rooms, all with sea views, cable TV, and air conditioning. Housing a 5 star cuisine, the hotel has two restaurants, a bar, and coffee shop on the premises. Recife Palace Hotel is located close to the beach, 5 minutes away from the airport, and is walking distance to the city center.

• Marante Plaza Hotel, Av. Boa Viagem, 1070, Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), . +55 81 3465-1070. Marante Plaza Hotel is an excellent option when you vacation in Recife. It is close to the Old Town nightlife and shopping. With 121 elegantly decorated suites, the hotel offers its guests air-conditioned rooms, saunas, and an art gallery. Rooms are available to host events also.

• Mar Hotel Recife, Rua Barão de Souza Leão, 451, Boa Viagem (Zona Sul), . Close to the airport and the beach, Mar Hotel Recife offers a wide variety of services, such as 24-hour room service, fitness rooms, and spa services.

Get out

• Olinda - This cute colonial town, just across the bridge from Recife, is a World Heritage Site.

• Porto de Galinhas, Maracaípe, Serrambi and Tamandaré are wonderful beaches.

• Itamaracá Island for its beaches, Coroa do Aviao islet, the 17th century Dutch Fort Orange, the colonial village of Vila Velha, and the IBAMA manatee nature center.

• Igarassu, home to Brazil's oldest church and Latin America's largest collection of barroque paintaings.

• São Benedito do Sul waterfalls.

• Caruaru and Tracunhaém for their rich hadicraft. Caruaru is also famous for its open-air market, the largest in Brazil.

• Nova Jerusalém , the world's largest theater-city, famous for its ennactment of the Passion of Jesus Christ during Easter(holy week).

• Serrita, in the Sertão region, for its annual Missa do Vaqueiro, a religious-cultural event that honors northeastern cowboys.